Brooks Range, Northern Lights, Arctic

Wildlife and Polar Bear Trip $5600

September 13 thru September 22, 2010:

Sept 13: Arrival Day

-Travelers arrive in Fairbanks after flights from lower 48 states or other Alaska

destinations and are met at the airport by Hugh. Our first night will be spent at a

comfortable B&B, in Fairbanks.

-A welcome dinner is planned at a local restaurant, where we will discuss the trip

itinerary in detail and talk about northern lights photography technique.  Keep your eyes

open for aurora borealis this first night! (D)

Sept 14: Drive north to Wiseman

After breakfast we will depart in my custom Dodge Sprinter van, driving north on what some people describe as the most scenic road in North America, the Dalton Highway.  The Dalton Highway or “Haul Road” as it is known to Alaskan truckers was completed in 1974 so trucks could haul equipment and supplies to the recently discovered Prudhoe Bay oil fields.  The roughly 420 mile gravel road begins, one hundred miles north of Fairbanks and is the only road that traverses the Arctic Circle in the United States.   The Highway crosses the White Mountains and miles of the interior Alaska Boreal forest, before crossing the mighty Yukon River at mile 58. Hillsides along these first one hundred miles of driving should still be carpeted with a blaze of fall color that we will see fade into early winter browns as we make our way north.  From the Yukon River the Dalton climbs into the alpine country of the Caribou and Ray Mountains to cross scenic Finger Mountain.  The epic wildfires of 2004 (featured in National Geographic) swept through this area, leaving a stark and eerie landscape for many miles, but providing new habitat for moose and fertile ground for wildflowers.  Shortly after Finger Mountain the road crosses the Arctic Circle and our crossing will be celebrated appropriately!  Another hour of driving brings us to the south side of the Brooks Range which will show traces of the intense autumn color that blanketed the mountainsides just a week before.  The yellow of cottonwoods and birches, the red of blueberries and the orange of dwarf birch will be fading into the browns and whites of early winter in this spectacular landscape and provide for great scenic photography!  As we enter the Brooks Range the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, which parallels the haul road becomes more apparent as it converges with the road corridor and stands on steel pillars adjacent to the road.  Thirty miles further driving and we will arrive at Coldfoot, the only truck stop on the five hundred miles of road between Fairbanks and Prudhoe Bay.  Coldfoot was a gold mining town at the turn of the last century and has the distinction of recording the greatest range of temperatures of anywhere in the United States.  Basically a truck stop, diner and hotel, Coldfoot is a unique look into the hard driving life of the truckers who make this 1,000 mile trip year round, even in the throws of winter when the temperatures reach 70 below zero!!  Our destination for the day is Wiseman, a turn of the 20^th Century gold mining town that offers a glimpse into the recent human history of this region.

Wiseman is located approximately 60 miles north of the Arctic Circle in the heart of the spectacular Brooks Range and is the perfect base for the next few days of exploration and photography in the area.  Accommodations in Wiseman may be considered slightly rustic, but are certainly cozy and comfortable.   The main sleeping cabin where we stay features three bedrooms and a large living area with kitchen facilities and a single bathroom and shower that are shared by all occupants.  A second sleeping cabin features two bedrooms with queen beds, a sitting area and bathroom with shower shared by the occupants of this building.   It still amazes me that a hot shower can be had in this wilderness setting!  Meals are served family style in the dance hall of the old Wiseman community center.  Away from the light pollution of Fairbanks we will spend our first evening north of the Arctic Circle looking for and photographing northern lights (cloud cover permitting).  If sky conditions and the aurora cooperate we will stay up late this evening and get a hands-on northern lights photography lesson.  This will be the first opportunity for Hugh to teach technique and composition of aurora photography in the field and we will make the most of the evening, if conditions are favorable.

Sept 15: Explore the South Side of the Brooks Range

This morning we will enjoy a more leisurely breakfast while we get to know our new surroundings.  After breakfast we will set out to explore the northern edge of the boreal forest as it extends northward from Wiseman, deep into the heart of the central Brooks Range.   We will dive north from Wiseman keeping an eye out for some of the inhabitants of the boreal forest such as, moose, wolves and grizzly bears.  As we journey deeper into the Brooks Range we will watch the boreal forest become thinner and thinner until eventually reaching the far northern edge of the forest at Chandalar Shelf, some 60 miles north of Wiseman.  Traces of the dazzling fall color will still be evident here on the south side of the Brooks Range as isolated pockets of brilliant red, orange and yellow.  We will go as far as time and interest take us today, but we will wait to venture into the alien landscape of the North Slope until the following day.  We will return to Wiseman in time to eat a great meal.  Weather permitting we will be watching for aurora tonight, but not too late as the following morning will see us getting an early start for our drive north to the arctic coast to catch our flight from Prudhoe Bay!

Sept 16: Part 1; Explore Arctic Brooks Range to Prudhoe Bay

After an early breakfast, we depart on the 240 mile drive to Prudhoe Bay.  This drive will take us over the 4,800 foot Atigun Pass, the highest road pass in Alaska, and the continental Divide of the Brooks Range.  Descending onto the north side of the Brooks Range from Atigun Pass we enter a different world devoid of trees, and home too many species of arctic wildlife.  The Trans-Alaska Pipeline snakes over the open tundra parallel to the road and is a constant reminder of what lies at the end of the road on the coast of the Beaufort Sea in Prudhoe Bay.  We have eight hours for this drive, which leaves some time to stop and photograph wildlife that we happen upon as well as the endless scenic photo opportunities.   We are destination oriented, however, as we have to get to Prudhoe Bay in time to catch our late afternoon flight to the native village, where we will be watching polar bears for the next few days.  This means we may have to pass by some scenic photographic opportunities in order to not miss our flight.   At the end of the road lies “Deadhorse” or Prudhoe Bay the hub of oilfield activity and the location of the airport where we will board our flight.

Sept 16: Part 2; Fly to Native Village

Upon arrival in Prudhoe Bay we will proceed directly to the Prudhoe Bay Airport and get checked in for our flight.  Luggage weight and size will be restricted on this flight to 70 pounds total per person (including camera gear) so everyone will consolidate their gear and take only what is needed for the next three nights in the arctic.  Gear should consist of necessary camera equipment and a small duffel with tooth brush, change of underwear and cold weather gear (Hugh can supply small duffels for people needing them).  Arctic weather conditions will be encountered, so suitable clothing and gear will be needed.  See the gear list at the end of this itinerary for a sample clothing and gear list.

The short (40 minute) flight takes us over the spectacular arctic coastal plain and the well known if not controversial “1002” area of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR).    Depending on the altitude flown at we may see herds of caribou, muskoxen, grizzly bears and polar bears.  Upon arrival in the Native Village in late afternoon we will be transported from the village airstrip to our accommodations for the next three nights.  Although our lodgings are not luxury, what they lack in appearance is made up for in hospitality and a certain charm.  Built from modular oilfield camp buildings the Inn is basic yet comfortable.  Accommodations are in double rooms with twin beds, bathrooms with showers are located down a short hall.  All our meals are prepared and eaten in the café located on site and are always hearty and tasty!  Our schedule will depend on weather and individual interests, but the best photography tends to be early in the morning and later in the evening, so we will try and schedule meals around our photographic forays!   The remainder of this day we will settle in and get oriented with our surroundings and hopefully see and photograph bears!

A few words about the native village

We will be visiting a native village inhabited by approximately 250 Inupiat “Eskimo” people who are endemic to this region of arctic Alaska.  The village is located on a small 3 mile by 2 mile island just off the arctic coastline. This Island was an important stop for whalers at the turn of the last century, but did not become a permanent settlement for the semi-nomadic Inupiat people until 1923 with the establishment of a fur trading post. The island is characterized by a large saltwater lagoon that is located on the east side of the island and provides a sheltered anchorage for the village fishing boats.  The downtown consists of a cluster of homes built on the barren tundra approximately one mile from the village airport.   There are limited roads and vehicles located in this village, but a vehicle is important for travel and photography of the polar bears.  We will have the only rental vehicle available and although it may not be pretty it will be sufficient for the purpose.   Keep in mind that we are visitors from a different culture to this village, and our sense of time and schedule may be different than the Inupiuq’s.  Experiencing the culture of the Inupiat is as much of an experience as watching the polar bears!

Why are Polar bears (Nanook) here?

The circumpolar indigenous people of the world have been hunting marine mammals and whales for thousands of years and the Inupiat of Alaska are no different.  In a very tightly controlled hunt, arctic coastal villages are allowed to hunt the bowhead whale, which frequent the waters of the adjacent Beaufort Sea/Arctic Ocean.  A whale harvest quota is awarded to each village according to number of residents and the historic harvest.

The Inupiat name for the polar bear is “Nanook” and the domain of Nanook is not the beaches and tundra of the arctic coast, but the pack ice that covers the sea surface for 9 months of the year.   Polar bears feed mainly on seals that live on and under the arctic ice, hunting them using a number of different techniques.  Like their cousins the brown bears from whom they evolved, during times of hunger, polar bears can be opportunistic and will feed on whatever food opportunities appear.  Other food sources can include vegetation such as grass, small rodents, bird eggs, other marine mammals and scavenging on carrion.   Polar bears are attracted to this area to scavenge on the carcasses of butchered whales, and begin to arrive here before the annual whale hunt begins on Labor Day each year.  In mid summer when the arctic pack ice moves off shore, Beaufort Sea polar bears are often marooned on shore where there is little to eat.  These bears enter the fall season hungry from lack of readily available food and have keyed into the presence of whale carcasses in this area starting in September.  A bear’s memory is so good they will remember the time and place where food was available and return to that same spot the next year at the same time.  The bears typically arrive in late august before the whale hunt begins, and will scavenge on the remains of whale carcasses from previous year’s hunts.  We will be visiting this area during the annual hunt and if we are fortunate we may witness the community event that surrounds the harvesting of a whale.

Sept 17 and 18: Photography and bear viewing

These two days will be spent viewing and photographing bears and other wildlife that inhabits this area.  Some bears wander into the village and can be seen prowling down streets early in the morning, however, we will drive to beaches where bears can be photographed more in their natural environment.  If we are fortunate we may see and photograph other animals and birds such as snowy owl, arctic fox, and even grizzly bear!  We will have opportunities to explore all the roads in this area during our search for bears and other wildlife.  If we are fortunate we may have the privilege of witnessing the bowhead whale harvest.  If this is the case we will be allowed to watch and photograph this amazing Inupiat tradition.  Observing and photographing this cultural event will be completely up to you as the travelers, but this would be a unique opportunity to watch something that few have ever seen.  We will have to exercise cultural awareness on this subject and may not be able to photograph all the people involved, but we can ask where photos are permissible.

Sept 19: Return to Prudhoe and Wiseman

This will be a long day of travel and our last opportunity to observe and photograph the bears.  We will head out early on our last bear viewing foray, staying out on the tundra until just before breakfast.  We board our airplane for the flight back to Prudhoe Bay at 10:30 AM and arrive in Prudhoe in time for lunch (see special travel note in the information section at the end of this itinerary).  Upon arrival in Prudhoe we will pick up a picnic lunch and start our drive south towards Wiseman as soon as we can.  Our goal is to spend time exploring the area of coastal plain that we had to pass by earlier in the trip on our way to catch the flight.  This will be one of our best opportunities to photograph muskoxen and we will make sure that we leave time to spend with these amazing prehistoric creatures.  In addition we will be watching for other wildlife in this stunning landscape, such as caribou, grizzly bear, moose, arctic fox, red fox, and wolf.  This time of year the sunset light is endless and the day lingers late into the evening hours.  We still have a long drive ahead and with photography stops will not reach Wiseman until later in the evening.   After the sun sets we will keep our eyes peeled for the aurora, as this may be an excellent opportunity for aurora photography!

Sept 20: Explore Around Wiseman

The beginning of this day will be marked by a leisurely morning in order to give everyone an opportunity to rest after the previous long day of travel and aurora viewing.  After breakfast we will set out to explore the environs around Wiseman and on the south side of the Brooks Range.  We can focus on whatever interests you, whether it is the mining history of the Wiseman area or looking for large mammals on the south side of the Brooks Range!  This evening will be spent searching the night skies for aurora and finding the ideal locations to photograph aurora from.

Sept 21: Drive Haul Road South, Return to Fairbanks

The beginning of this day will be marked by a hearty breakfast, after which we will have some time to wander around Wiseman and take any final photos of the historic town, before we depart south for Fairbanks.  As usual we will maximize wildlife viewing and photographic opportunities during this day of travel.  Upon arrival in Fairbanks we will check in at a comfortable B&B, get cleaned up from a day on the road and head out to our farewell dinner at a fine local restaurant.

Sept 22: Flights home

After breakfast this morning you will be transported to the Fairbanks airport for

your flights home.

Information about Alaska

“Before you travel “

DOCUMENTATION:

-A valid US ID is required for travel to and from Alaska via commercial airline

Special Travel Note About the arctic:

In the unlikely event that our return flight from the native village back to Prudhoe Bay is cancelled due to weather, an additional fee of $225 per person will be collected from each trip participant for each additional night we have to stay in the village.  This is to cover the extra cost of staying in the village and the cost of a rental vehicle so that we are still able to view and photograph polar bears.  I apologize in advance if it becomes necessary to collect this additional fee, but weather in the arctic can be unpredictable.

ARRIVING IN ALASKA:

-Please have your flights arrive in Fairbanks no later than 4:30 PM on Sept 13 in order to arrive in time for our welcome/orientation dinner.  I will pick up people who arrive in Fairbanks on September 13 and transport them to the B&B.  Anyone who chooses to arrive before September 13 should contact me for independent arrangements for transport.  In addition if anyone plans on arriving early please contact me to arrange additional nights in Fairbanks.

-Please have your departure flight leave from Fairbanks after 8:00 AM on the 22^nd of September or later if you plan on staying afterwards.  If your flight departs before 8:00 AM on the 22^nd you can arrange for independent transport to the airport.

SAFETY AND SECURITY:

Your safety while on the trip is my top concern! Most activities will be dictated to some degree by the weather and safety is always paramount, however, it is important to remember that a good part of this trip takes place in the wilderness of the Brooks Range, far from hospital services.   Although I will take great care to ensure your safety, accidents do happen.  For this reason I recommend that you have insurance to cover you while traveling. There are many insurance companies offering travel insurance these days so a good way to find the right policy for you at the right price, is to visit a website such as www.insuremytrip.com.  This service will match the right policy to your needs and price.  They offer insurance from companies such as MEDEX, American Express, Global underwriters, AIG and many more.  Travel insurance will also cover a number of other potential problems with your trip, for instance, if you must unexpectedly cancel or interrupt your trip the cost of your trip will be refunded, lost baggage protection, and medical bills incurred while traveling are all usually included in an insurance policy.   Make sure you purchase a travel insurance policy that does include evacuation coverage in the unlikely event that you do need to be medi-vacced from a remote location.

Remember, hiking and exploring in a wilderness environment does contain inherent risk, so use common sense!  Please think before engaging in any “risky” behavior and know that I will be giving safety briefings throughout the trip.

Security-wise there’s not much to worry about in Alaska!

MONEY:

-Cash or credit cards work just about everywhere in Alaska, however, in the more remote parts of Alaska (that we visit) NO ONE accepts credit cards!  If you want to buy any kind of native art work or other souvenirs to take home I would recommend carrying some amount of cash for these purchases as credit cards will not be accepted in any of the remote locations we visit.  Additionally, a boat ride may be available for close-up viewing and photography of polar bears and the boat drivers will only accept cash.

TELEPHONE SERVICE:

-There is standard phone and cellular phone communication-service in Fairbanks, Prudhoe Bay and the native village we visit; however, in Wiseman phone service is limited to a coin less pay phone.  Talk to Hugh for emergency contact numbers.

Laundry:

-Laundry is available on days 1 and 10 in Fairbanks and may be available in the Native Village

Climate:

-You are traveling to the high arctic in fall!! Keep in mind the arctic has ever changing weather with temperatures that can swing from below freezing to warm in a matter of hours at this time of year.  Expect daytime temperatures in the 30’s and 40’s (perhaps as high as the 60’s) with nights below freezing.  Both rain and/or snow are possible as well so think layers when packing starting with a waterproof and windproof outer shell with layers of wool or fleece underneath.  Warm hat and gloves are essential as are liner gloves for photography!   Be prepared for rainy cool weather.  Dressing in layers is very helpful as you can remove or add as the temperature dictates.

LUGGAGE:

-Please take into consideration that you will be traveling by van and be living in a small space. Please use soft-sided duffel bags and limit your bags to at most two medium sized bags per person and a camera bag.  On the flight to and from the Native village you will be limited on your luggage weight!

FOOD:

All meals are included in the cost of the trip.

-Please notify me of any special dietary requests, food allergies or food preferences.
WHAT TO BRING:

- Depending on your own needs, the following is a suggested packing list:

CLOTHING:

Being prepared for all weather conditions by dressing in layers is the key to comfort, and packing smart is the key to being prepared.  Starting with a thin base layer of either capilene or merino wool works best.  Products such as Patagonia capilene base layer and/or Icebreaker or Ibex merino wool work great.  I prefer the merino wool products, as the merino wool is soft on the skin and takes on no body odors.  This allows for wearing these garments longer between washes.  On top of your base layer you want a medium weight polar fleece or merino pullover, and a heavier weight zip-up fleece to go over that.  People who suffer more from the cold should consider a lightweight down sweater or jacket to put over these layers.  The final “top” layer should be a waterproof (either Gore-Tex or equivalent), breathable jacket that acts as both a rain coat and windproof layer.  You can finish your layering with some kind of warm hat and gloves.  For those doing photography a pair of thin fleece gloves work best so you can operate all your camera controls with gloves on!  If you have any questions on the gear to bring or on the gear list please contact me!

• Sneakers one pair for light walking and travel days
• Warm hiking boots These would be used for hiking in the Brooks Range
• Waterproof boots You may consider this for the native village as the ground can be wet and if you want to hike across the tundra to see muskoxen etc your feet will stay warm if they are dry!
• A pair of light slippers, clogs or sandals For wearing in the lodge in Wiseman and Native Village
• Gore-Tex (or equivalent) jacket Lightweight Gore-Tex jacket for wind and rain protection (outer layer)
• Gore-Tex (or equivalent) Rain pants
• Lightweight down jacket Layered under your Gore-tex jacket this keeps you warm on the cool nights and during the day if we are waiting for bears
• Sweater or fleece jacket for the third layer and cool nights
• long-sleeved shirt or midweight fleece pullover for the second layer, 2 of these are nice if you get one wet or dirty you have a backup
• Base layer shirts 2 or 3 base layer light weight capilene or merino wool shirts either short or long sleeve
• Base layer underwear You will want one base layer of long underwear (capilene or merino wool) in case we get a really cold day.  These do not take up much room!
• Long pants 2 pair of lightweight long pants.  Some of the new lightweight quick drying material pants are fantastic for this.  They are light enough to hike in yet provide a windbreak and some insulation
• Socks 5 pair of medium to light weight merino wool socks
• Underwear I’ll leave this to you to decide how many pair you need!
• Warm Hat Ski hat
• Warm Gloves Warm ski gloves
• Thin fleece gloves For photography
• Bathing suit there’s a hot tub at the B&B in Fairbanks so if you want to use this, bring a swim suit!
• Dress is always casual, so no dressy clothes are required!

OTHER GEAR:

• Walking-stick If you have weak ankles, or feel unsteady on uneven ground these are great for walking on the tundra
• Base ball cap or wide brimmed sun hat Good for the sun or rain
• Small day pack Useful for carrying extra clothes, water, binoculars, camera etc. on hikes and for keeping these items together in the van on travel days
• Sunglasses A must for Alaska this time of year
• Binoculars I do have a few pairs to loan out, but if you have your own that you are used to bring them.
• Water bottle I provide bottled water, but encourage people to use refillable water bottles to reduce our waste.  You can use one of the bottled water bottles and just refill it
• Small battery operated alarm Clock This is important if you want to rise early for good light etc, plus we have some early morning departures!
• Sunscreen Hopefully you will need this!
• zip-lock plastic bags Good for carrying dirty or wet clothes or keeping things dry in your back pack
• A Headlamp It is getting dark by this time in Alaska! A headlamp is important for night time activities such as photographing the aurora.  The headlamp leaves your hands free for working a camera while you photograph aurora borealis.  Please get a headlamp that comes with a fold down RED lens.  Many  headlamps today such as Petzl, come with a fold down red lens, this is to preserve your night time vision when you need to use the light and so you don’t blind your neighbour!
• Your regular toiletry kit
• All personal prescription meds and favorite remedies. Whatever you usually need (Consult your physician.).  Remember we will be isolated from stores and pharmacies most of the trip, so stock up on your usual meds for headache, insect bites etc.
• Small basic First Aid Kit I carry a more comprehensive First Aid Kit in the van, but I recommend that you carry a small kit with your basic needs in it.  This would go along with favorite remedies and prescription meds.
• extra pair of prescription glasses,
• Earplugs Most every place we stay is quiet, but just in case there is an annoying noise, this is not a bad idea!

CAMERA GEAR:

• This of course is highly personal what each person brings.  I use Canon Camera equipment and may have a few lenses to loan out to people.  Please contact me in advance to discuss this.
• A tripod is an absolute must for aurora photography.
• A beanbag I recommend a Kinesis photo gear bean bag.  You can purchase the beanbag from Kinesis empty of beans and we can fill your bag after you arrive in Fairbanks.
• Telephoto lens 300mm or longer for wildlife and birds
• Tele extenders Preferably matched with the lens
• Spare camera body If you own one.  I’ve seen many cameras come to grief on trips and I hate to see anyone on a trip without a camera, who wants to photograph!
• Longer range zoom For wildlife and landscapes (70-200mm)
• Medium range zoom For people and landscape (24-105mm)
• A fast (f/2.8) Wide angle zoom For landscapes and aurora (16-35mm)
• Lots of extra memory cards
• A digital storage device Such as Epson P-2000, Hyperdrive, or laptop computer  If you plan on shooting more than you have card space for this is important.
• Battery charger and spare battery
• Polarizing Filter
• Cable release for aurora photography.

REMEMBER, this list is only a general recommendation and that personalization of the list should be considered by each individual according to her/his own needs.

In addition I recommend that you DO NOT PACK the following items in your checked luggage:

• All airline tickets and travel documents
• Credit cards, money
• Anything of any value I just heard of a laptop computer stolen from checked baggage between Vancouver and Anchorage
• Luggage keys
• Sunglasses
• Prescription glasses
• Camera gear
• Prescription medications
• A light change of clothing
• Your light hiking boots
• Rain jacket

Books on this region of Alaska:

Arctic Village, Robert Marshall

Arctic Wilderness, Robert Marshall

Shopping for Porcupine, Seth Kantnor

Ordinary Wolves, Seth Kantnor

Two in the Far North, Margaret E. Murie

INCLUDED IN THE TRIP PRICE: $5600*

-Airport transfer in Fairbanks on September 13 and September 22

-All accommodations in Alaska, from the night of September 13 until the night of September 21, including; Fairbanks, Wiseman and Native village

-All meals from dinner on September 13 to breakfast on September 22

-All transportation on the trip including airline flight to Native Village

-Beer and wine at Wiseman

* In this time of ever escalating fuel prices I may have to add a fuel surcharge to the trip price.  I sincerely want to avoid this, but costs have been steadily climbing, especially in the arctic where all food and fuel oil has to be flown in at great expense.  I apologize in advance if this becomes necessary, but in the event of a fuel surcharge I will let you know as far in advance as possible.

NOT INCLUDED:

-Flights to and from Fairbanks to your home in the lower 48.

-Alcoholic beverages are neither included nor served in Native Villages

-Money for purchases of souvenir items

-Scenic flight seeing if you choose to do this activity

-Boat ride in the Native village

PAYMENTMENT SCHEDULE:

-No refundable deposit of $500 per person is due on booking trip

-Half of the trip price minus the $500 deposit ($2300) is due by May 15^th

-The remaining half of the trip ($2,800) is due by August 15^th

-Cancellations are refundable until June 15^th minus the $500 deposit, after this date payments are refundable dependent on your space being filled by another traveler

-If cancellations are made after Aug 15^th I will make every effort to get your money back, but rely on filling your space.  For this reason I would recommend trip insurance if you believe that there is any chance you may have to make a last minute cancellation.